![1963 ford thunderbird brake hose 1963 ford thunderbird brake hose](https://www.classicperform.com/Hydra-Stop/page-header.jpg)
Wow, Jim, I just spent 20 minutes collecting my thoughts on this and post my message only to see you beat me to the punch. If you look over at the passenger's inside fender facing toward the battery, are there two flat looking spots that are undrilled? The hose you have going to the canister should be going into the dash. As you show it in your diagram, you have no hose going into the dash. There was no detail of the non-A/C arrangement. I looked throught the 62 Electrical Assembly Manual but could only find the A/C type hose placement. Follow what Alan said and reduce the hose coming off of the manifold down to the size that will go into the dash to control the heater. So you can eliminate your cannister and check valve. All the T-bird suppliers have them and the clamps too if yours are too far gone.Īs for your vacuum cannister, and I wasn't aware of this until I read Alan's post, is that you do not need the cannister for a non-A/C car. They are made of rubber as you said and they direct the water further down into the engine compartment. What exactly is their purpose and is replacement mandatory? Even if not I'd like to know what exactly they're called and I may order a set for the sake of completeness. There are also 2 oval shaped openings on each side of the firewall off which hang remnants of what used to be oval shaped rubber hoses of sorts with a clamp. If you have just the heater, a hose is run from the small nipple on the tee fitting screwed into the intake manifold to an in-line fitting that steps down the vacuum hose size to allow a small hose to continue through the firewall to the heater control panel. If you have A/C, a smaller vacuum line runs from the small nipple on the tee fitting on the intake manifold to the larger nipple on the reservoir that's mounted near the battery a small hose then runs from the reservoir through the firewall to the heater control panel (hence my suggestion to get the factory assembly manuals to track everything down under the dash).
![1963 ford thunderbird brake hose 1963 ford thunderbird brake hose](https://www.mustangdepot.ca/image/cache/823315e79dd509fa8d1f85d189f75e37/4d96b61b1835b83d56d641ed8d97917b.jpg)
on the friction surfaces will cause poor braking on that side.If you're intent on finding a vacuum hose routing diagram, the best thing to do is get a copy of the the '63 T-bird Electrical Assembly Manual, as this has diagrams on the heater and A/C installation and vacuum hose routing under the dash as well as to the reservoir in the engine bay.Īs for the brake booster, the larger-sized hose goes from a brass tee fitting that's screwed into the intake manifold near the carburetor on the passenger side to the larger hose nipple on the booster a smaller, formed hose goes from the small nipple on the booster to a steel line that runs down to the vacuum modulator on the back of the transmission. Also cleanliness can NOT be overstated, any grease, etc. If one does pull its often deteriorated rubber brake lines that have "hour-glassed" internally, sometimes its a "stuck" wheel cylinder. With good drums, quality shoes and a proper installation and adjustment NEITHER side should pull and neither side should have 75% of the shoe material NOT contacting the drums. There are leading and trailing shoes and adjusters are NOT interchangeable side to side, most will have an L or R imprinted on them someplace.
![1963 ford thunderbird brake hose 1963 ford thunderbird brake hose](https://www.partsgeek.com/assets/dimage/full/1673753.jpg)
Next make ABSOLUTELY sure the shoes and springs are installed correctly. I've used their premium shoes and drums on dozens of classics with zero issues. If the drums are in spec and not out-of-round then quality shoes are available at all NAPA stores. First off (as stated above) have your drums checked to make sure the material is still within spec. Sounds like your mechanic isn't all that familiar with drum brakes. In fact, drum brakes saved my life in 2016. I've driven manual drum brake classic cars for 50 years with zero issues and no "pre-arcing" in the last 20. The driver does after a couple hundred miles of driving and braking the shoes will naturally wear into a compatible arc. Nobody arcs brake shoes anymore, well - not totally true.